Napa Valley's muddy mayhem

Where to get browned-off
Mudbaths can be experienced at several spas across town, the most famous of which is the sinister-sounding Dr Wilkinson’s Hot Springs Resort. Don’t be put off by the word "Doctor"; there aren’t any medical experiments taking place inside, just a variety of remedial mud baths that have been perfected over the years by genuine MD John Wilkinson and his family. The top treatment at this hotel-and-spa-in-one is the aptly-titled "The Works"; for a very reasonable $189 (around £90) this gives visitors a mud bath, a relaxing soak in a mineral bath, then a break in the steam room followed by a cool blanket wrap and finally an hour-long massage, leaving you feeling quite possibly more clean and invigorated than you've ever felt before. The mudbath is the part you'll remember the most; there's a bizarre and hot sensation as you sink into the dark, thick and slightly pungent brew of muddy goodness - and then you float. That's because the peat content keeps it buoyant, meaning you'll hover with a weightless feeling as the rejuvenatory chemicals get to work on those pores.

Whether you're braving the mud or not, Dr Wilkinson's is a fine hotel to be based in for your Calistoga visit - comfortable, perfectly located at one end of the main street and has a spacious pool area for lazing under the mighty Californian sun. From outside it looks like a very ordinary roadside motel, with a typical courtyard-style Californian layout. But step inside and you'll find it's infinitely cosier than that.

Further attractions
Calistoga offers an array of other attractions. Within walking distance of town are some striking wineries like the Sterling Vineyards, perched on a small outcrop and accessed by a cable car ride. As you tour the winery you'll get stunning 360-degree valley views.

Also just outside town is the Old Faithful geyser, a reminder of how geologically lively the Napa area is. It's one of the world’s tallest and most reliably-performing geysers, spouting hot water and steam every 30 minutes or so at heights of up to 75 feet. It's an impressive display – just remember to stand clear of the splash zone - and while you wait for the show, you can go and meet a flock of "fainting goats" who live nearby, famous for supposedly falling over at the slightest shock. I tried telling them alarming rumours about celebrities, but couldn't get them to pass out.

A short drive away is another natural attraction, a Petrified Forest where you can peer at some curious ancient trees in a lovely woodland setting, and there are plenty of opportunities for biking and river rafting. Back in town, Calistoga's numerous restaurants mean there are more food options than you'll be able to sample during your visit - and as you head back south to San Francisco, look out for Napa Premium Outlets, a retail park where big stores sell off last season's clothes at bargain prices.

Some trivia
Were it not for its fine wine, Calistoga wouldn’t even have its name; making a speech back in 1800s, town founder Sam Brannan declared that he’d like the place to become as cultured as the famously smart New York town of Saratoga. But he’d sipped a bit too much Vino in the pre-speech meal and rather than suggesting the town become the "Saratoga of California", he turned it into "the Calistoga of Sarafornia". And presumably keeled over soon afterwards.

Getting there
British Airways and Virgin Atlantic are among the airlines flying from the UK to San Francisco; from there it's a drive of about two and a half hours. There are also various bus services plying the route and you can fly directly into the area's Napa Country Airport on a small charter jet.

NEXT: Calistoga in pictures