A range of hotels can be found in the Ville Nouvelle and on the outskirts of town, and a smaller selection in Fez el-Djid. But by far the most fun and atmospheric place to be based is within the Medina itself, and you can't do better than one of the restored Riads, magnificent mansions with traditional architecture and decoration and set around a central open patio. There are several hidden within Fez's old town and one of the most spectacular and newest is the serene Riad Laaroussa. This former 17th Century palace sparkles following a two-year restoration that has transformed it from a decaying shadow of its former self into a luxury hotel.

In keeping with the mystical and unpredictable aura of the Medina itself, Riad Laaroussa seems to appear out of nowhere; you'll never once see its enclosed walls from the outside, and finding your way in entails slipping away down a side street and through an anonymous alley, whereupon you'll find yourself suddenly in a hallway with a magnificent wooden door that hints at something special inside. The Riad's patio area, with a veritable grove of little orange trees and softly babbling Moorish fountain, is the ideal antidote after a day of sightseeing around Fez. The unendingly smiling staff know the city backwards and help ensure you get the very most out of your visit.

Riad Laaroussa is a big place, so with just seven rooms and suites, it feels spacious. All accommodations have thoroughly diffferent colours and layouts but stick entirely to local art and design. It's all as supremely clean and comfortable as you'd expect from a 4-star property and the owners have done an ingenious job of keeping everything simple and authentic whilst sneaking in every luxury you could want. The doors and tiles may be antique but rooms are fully kitted out with air-con (crucial for Fez's scorching summers) and even Wi-Fi. Bathrooms come in stunning traditional styles whilst packing the most powerful showers you'll ever encounter. For all the mod-cons though, televisions are mercifully absent, so there's nothing to interrupt the peace apart from the evocative early morning Islamic call to prayer. Rise early for a traditional breakfast on the sunny terrace, from where there you can get panoramic views over the city rooftops.

You couldn't ask for a much more magical place to stay in Fez, or anywhere else for that matter - and you'll definitely thank yourself for deciding to sleep in the heart of the Medina. Being woken up by the sound of birds looping round the patio or donkeys plodding along nearby streets just adds to the wonder of Fez - and for a short stay, it's infinitely handy to avoid having a long trek back from the Old Town to your hotel.

Fez facts: There are no direct flights from the UK, but GB Airways flies to nearby Casablanca. Fez is 154 miles from there and can be reached by train, bus or connecting flight on Royal Air Maroc. Rooms at the Riad Laaroussa start at 150 Euros per night.