Cycle across the Channel

Many visiting Brits treat Calais as a mere gateway to France, a port that they have to drive through to get to bits of the country that are more interesting and a good bit further away. That's a real shame, for to skip this region - Nord Pas de Calais - is to miss out on charming rural scenery that is quiet, uncrowded and supremely accessible from the UK.

Cars roll off ferries here less than two hours after leaving Dover, but perhaps the best way to explore the area is on two wheels rather than four. If you've been inspired by watching the Tour de France from the comfort of that couch, here's the ideal place for seeing a bit of France by bike, without trekking all the way to the Alps. The hills are less terrifying, too.

Mind the cows
What's it like cycling on the other side of the Channel? Heading away from the port, you can be on quiet rural highways within minutes and you'll swiftly notice how easy it is to cycle over there. There'll still be plenty of cars about, but French motorists are amazingly tolerant towards people on bikes, and the biggest highway hazard you're likely to face at any point in Nord Pas de Calais is the occasional herd of cattle crossing the road.

Not wheely that hard
You'll encounter the odd hill in Pas de Calais but nothing too alarming, meaning it's a perfectly feasible place to cycle even if you're a novice or in disastrous physical shape.

Town touring
Many of Pas de Calais's towns aren't just functional stopover points but charming places of interest in their own right. Don't miss Wimereux, a delightful seaside settlement that has been invaded (in the positive sense) by so many different peoples over the years that its colourful buildings resemble bits of architecture from all over the world. Head for the streets near its seafront to check out the quirkiest structures and enjoy a beachside snack.

Low-key fishing villages like Audresselles, Wissant and Ambleteuse - where an imposing fortress stands guard at a wide rocky beach - also make good cycle-friendly spots for a break.

Well-earned meals
Food tastes better when you've earned it, and the hearty fare of the Estaminet chain of restaurants is just the thing for weary cyclists. As well as serving delicious, filling meals at modest prices, these cosy tavern-style establishments are renowned for their fiendish table-top games - imagine table football meets air hockey meets crystal maze. Over beer.

Get beached
You'll be surprised just how sandy, appealing and vast the beaches are on France's North coast. You certainly won't find yourself fighting for space here the way you would on Brighton Beach at the merest hint of sunshine – with more than 100 kms of sand to go around, overcrowding isn't much of an issue. Grab a hamper, cram in as much local wine, cheese and baguettes as you can physically carry whilst cycling, head for the sand and you have all you need for the most perfect of seaside picnics.

The scenic route
Even if beaches aren't your thing, the rugged coastal roads will impress you. Well-marked detours from the main roads will lead you to remnants of wartime hideouts and gun emplacements, as well as nature reserves with plenty of birdlife to spot. Just be sure to lock your bike up before you head off on any trails.

Next: Getting there and other practicalities