Ghent, Belgium
Whoever said Belgium was flat, boring and full of suits needs to hop on the Eurostar pronto to Belgium's northern region of Flanders. An area best known for "Flanders Fields" - First World War battlefields of preserved trenches and underground dugouts - it was a revelation to find it full of atmospheric medieval towns with lively cafés, cobbled streets and restaurants serving up divine food. Believe it or not, Belgium has more Michelin-starred eateries than France, as well as over 2,130 chocolate shops. Enough said: ticket booked.
From Brussels Midi station it takes just 25 minutes to reach the charming renaissance city of
Mechelen, home to four UNESCO World Heritage sites including the 97-metre-high St Rombold's Tower with its beautiful carillon bells, the Cloth Hall and the Great Beguinage - prime "aimless wandering" ground with little streets and gorgeous old cottages (former dwellings to women who took on religious work). For kids (or the child within you), wander over to the Toy Museum and rediscover your favourite toys or reminisce over favourite Lego creations. Beware the puppet and dolls section which is scary if you've seen one too many horror films, but otherwise harmless. For something more highbrow, admire Hof van Busleyden Museum's renaissance art or dine and drink in the main square, Grote Markt, lit up by the beautiful Town Hall and belfry.
When it's time to refuel, fill up at the Het Anker Brewery restaurant, one of Belgium's oldest working breweries. Flanders produces an amazing array of beers, which are so good that they're used in cooking. Try the regional dish, Mechelen Cuckoo (not really cuckoo, but specially-bred chicken with cuckoo-like feathers), in a rich gravy made with Mechelen's renowned Golden Carolus beer and served with a portion of those famous frites. Yes, beer and chips (and chocolate) are what Belgium does best, so leaving without trying this trio is a gastronomic gaffe. The brewery is also attached to the Hotel Carolus, so if you like your lodgings, grub and beer in one place, you can't go far wrong.
Also 20 minutes away by train from Brussels is
Leuven which has more than a whiff of Oxford about it with around 30,000 students and what seems like as many bicycles. It's a lovely town, dotted with characterful university buildings, and home to what is probably Belgium's most ornate town hall facade, a stunning Gothic work adorned with 236 statues in the main square (Grote Markt), opposite St Peter's Church. The church is worth a peek and art fans should see Dirk Bouts's famous work, The Last Supper. For more aimless wandering, officially one of the best ways to explore a city, then Leuven's Great Beguinage (a UNESCO World Heritage Site) is perfect with its cobbled streets, cottages and olde-worlde feel.
