Go green in the Florida Keys

The Florida Keys stretch across 150 miles of one of the most delicately balanced eco-systems in North America, home to such beloved aquatic creatures as dolphins, turtles and manatees. We went to find out how this beautiful region is looking to provide visitors with a more eco-aware experience, whilst still delivering countless outdoor pursuits and luxury hotels.

To get a real feel for Key West, base yourself in the old town. Countless white wooden guest houses, many built by rich traders and mariners, dot the streets leading off Duval. The Old Town Manor on Eaton Street is a classic Key West townhouse with a lush tropical garden and some eco-friendly credentials by way of one Green Palm, issued by the Florida Green Lodging program, which is a sort of green Michelin star.

Most of the sights and attractions, not to mention the plethora of bars and clubs, are scattered throughout the Old Town. The Old Town Trolley Bus stops at most of these while the drivers offer an insight into the history and points of interest. You can get on and off wherever you like, and it boasts clean-burning propane fuel so you won't be clogging the streets with fumes.

After joining the masses to watch the sunset from Mallory Square, head for Duval, where evening dining and drinking options are numerous.

Sloppy Joe's, The Hogsbreath, and the Green parrot - a favourite of Ernest Hemingway's - are all nearby. Mangoes is an institution: for 17 years now it has been delivering fine food (still with the original chef) and a warm atmosphere. The Mushroomtini is a house speciality and well worth trying. The other main draw is the open-air tree-dappled patio right on Duval Street, from where you can look out on the revelry and hedonism from a relaxed and civilised vantage point.

One of the newer attractions on the island is the $6 million Florida Keys Eco-Discovery Center, a huge, free environmental education facility. The Keys' indigenous marine life is explored via a walk-through underwater laboratory, touch-screen modules, and interactive video tours.

To get the most out of Key west and the Keys in general you will at one stage or another have to get on a boat. Stalls offering all manner of charters, trips and adventures are scattered along Duval. Fishing is popular, though expensive. But if you have a few friends willing split the cost then, for a reasonable amount, the quintessential Key West experience can be yours. Snorkelling trips out to the reef are also widely available but the reef is on life support and underwhelming to look at.

Quite simply, if you can do it on or in the water then you can do it here: jet skis, kite surfing, wind surfing, diving, sailing, riding a huge inflatable sausage dragged by a power boat, whatever your sea legs desire.

For something different and more in tune with the environment, head up to Murray's Marina (Highway 1, Mile Marker 5). Captain Victoria Impallomeni offers wildlife and educational tours of the Lower Keys with a twist of spirituality. Her boat, The Imp II, will whisk you out to the small mangrove islands surrounding the Lower Keys where you'll encounter ospreys heron, dolphins and much more. The spiritual side of things seems to be largely optional, but (and I'm a cynic in every sense of the word) you can't help being drawn into Captain Victoria's passion and sensitivity. Her trips are clearly very meaningful to some. One of our shipmates on the excursion was along to see a special place where her ashes would soon be scattered by Captain Vicky. On our way back to the marina we were joined by half-a-dozen or so dolphins drawn, according to the skipper, by the Vivaldi humming out of the bow speakers.

Next: Relaxing in Islamorada

For more information on the Florida Keys, visit www.fla-keys.co.uk