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Ramsay goes global

VM: What's next?

GR: France! If I thought I got my nuts kicked in New York, wait until I open in Paris! My goal in cooking was to achieve three Michelin stars. To try and replicate that in Paris is exciting. I've got time on my side - I'm f****ing mad and I'm scared of nothing. Half the French chefs in Britain wouldn't survive in France. We take over at the Hotel Trianon Palace at Versailles on October 1 and open January. New York was a canapé, an insight. Paris is easier than New York. It's only an hour away and I'm bilingual, because I lived there for three years.

VM: Does having an empire mean less cooking?

GR: I f***ing cook my arse off. I'm 40, I've been in the kitchen 21 years. I wouldn't be where I am today if I didn't continue cooking, come up with new ideas. And that's not just because I've got three Michelin stars to maintain. There are two ways in this industry - either you move with it or it moves you. The secret is to be copied - when you're not being copied there's something wrong. Every day I'm asked the same question. Who does the cooking when you're not there? Answer, the same people who do it when I AM there. The secret is to have things as absolutely perfect in your absence as in your presence.

VM: You've got a restaurant in Tokyo, a new place in Boca Raton in Florida - Angela Hartnett at the helm - and LA and Dublin are coming. And yet you've just opened two London pubs...

GR: It's really exciting, even though people say: Ramsay's not there, he's just put his name to it. But I've spent £650,000, taken a 150-year lease and am spending a quarter of a million pounds a year in rent on the Narrow, by the Thames in Limehouse. And the Warrington in Maida Vale, beautiful pub - £5.5million freehold. Everyone thinks you can't diversify from haute cuisine to braised faggots. But when you're in food, want to go on that journey, you start from a braised faggot, steak and kidney pudding, then it evolves. There are chefs who want to make the most amazing split pea and ham hock soup.

VM: Any other plans?

GR: Las Vegas is the cash cow every chef dreams of - I'd like to look at that one day!

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07-07-2011