Rome wasn't built in a day and when you're there, you'll quickly see why. The sights are numerous - there's the Vatican City, Sistine Chapel, Trevi Fountain, the Colosseum, the Forum and the Spanish Steps... But unless you want to return home so exhausted that you need another break to get over this one, don't spend your trip racing from one must-see sight to the next. Slow down, relax and give the crowds a miss from time to time. Rome's real treasures aren't worth missing for anything.

Trastevere

Literally, it means "across the Tevere", the Tevere being the Italian word for the river Tiber which crosses Rome. And this atmospheric quarter on the west bank of the river is worth visiting for its crumbling but beautiful architecture, tiny streets and boho vibe. Strangely, the washing that is hung out to dry between the apartment blocks is an amateur photographer's dream - every washing line is a Kodak moment. The heart and soul of the area is the Piazza Santa Maria, where everyone gathers from locals to tourists, Italians on a night to artists selling their wares. As is often the case, Trastevere has become increasingly gentrified but it retains its appeal and some of the city's best restaurants and bars lie tucked away in this absorbing part of Rome.

A Rome with a view

For the most accessible and spectacular views of the city, it's got to be Janiculum Hill, near Trastevere. A 15-minute walk up Via Garibaldi takes you to the summit and awe-inspiring vistas. The other alternative is Villa Borghese, Rome's most enticing open space, its woods, lake and greenery make for a welcome respite. The shady gardens are a popular weekend retreat where skaters, cyclists and families jostle for space but the views from Pincio Hill are fantastic - it's the best spot from which to take in the majestic views of St Peter's Square and basilicas. The park's past is equally majestic as past visitors include the likes of Keats and Ghandi. Art lovers should head to the Galleria Borghese which houses some of Rome's best artworks.

Squaring up

Italy's piazzas (squares) are one its most endearing features, and Piazza Campo de' Fiori is one of Rome's loveliest, with its morning fruit and vegetable markets and bustling bars and restaurants around its edge. Make time in the evening to dine al fresco (weather permitting) as many of the city's monuments and streets are beautifully lit by night - it's as atmospheric as it gets.

Past times

If you want to be transported back in time, wander the streets of the former old Jewish Ghetto around the far side of Via Arenula, just across from Trastevere. Tiny streets and crumbling buildings characterise this area, whose past is best depicted in the permanent exhibition in the Synagogue. Take a look at the lovely Fontana delle Tartarughe (Turtle Fountain) on Piazza Mattei too. Another forgotten spot is Ostia Antica at the mouth of the Tiber estuary. It's the old port of ancient Rome and is on a par with Pompeii and Herculaneum for its historical significance. The remnants of a Roman town remain but the theatre and bathhouse mosaics are the highlights. You'll appreciate the sea breeze on hotter days too.

Roman eats

Romans love to eat so take advantage of the city's cuisine and treat eating out as a sight in itself. Don't 'grab a slice' or eat in what is an obvious tourist hotspot - authentic pizzerias and inexpensive trattorias are easy to find. Head to the studenty zone of San Lorenzo, the neighbourhood of Testaccio in the south of the city or Trastevere for real choice and atmosphere. If your interest in food extends to history, visit the National Museum of Pasta Foods, a tribute to Italy's famous culinary offering, located by the Quirinale Palace on Piazza Scanderbeg (not far from the Trevi Fountain). Another food of national pride is its delicious ice cream - and one of the best ice cream parlours in the city is in the posh Parioli district. If you fancy making a pilgrimage to San Fillippo, make your way to Via di Villa San Fillippo for a real treat.

Relax, Roman-style

There's nothing more Roman than sipping a coffee at a pavement café or in one of the city's numerous squares, as you chat, read or people-watch. It's one of the greatest aspects of Italian living so when in Rome, do as the Romans do, and just hang out. Don't worry about missing out on what you haven't seen - just throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain to ensure your return to the eternal city. And you will return.