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Victoria Falls: life on the edge

Africa's most famed natural attraction isn't the kind of sight that can be taken in during a five-minute photo-stop; fully exploring the area around the mind-blowing Victoria Falls proves a thrilling experience.

They're not the world's highest waterfalls (even at 107 metres high, twice the height of Niagara). There's often debate as to whether they're the widest (competing with South America's Iguazu Falls). But really, does size matter when falling water looks this good?

Known locally as Mosi-Oa-Tunya or "the Smoke that Thunders", the Victoria Falls, on the Zambia-Zimbabwe border, transform the Zambezi River into a cascade of raging water, throwing spray so high it can be seen over 30km away.

That sheet of water, made up of Devil's Cataract, Main Falls, Rainbow Falls and Eastern Cataract, is about a mile wide and keeps you mesmerised as its froth plummets powerfully and rainbows swoop across the gorge below. The beauty and force here provoke an instant adrenalin rush – even before embarking on any adventure activities

Of course, adrenalin is relative; for many, walking along Knife Edge Bridge is bracing enough. The bridge crosses over the Boiling Pot, where the river turns and heads down the Batoka Gorge, and also offers the best views of the Eastern Cataract and Rainbow Falls. Other viewpoints include the Falls Bridge and the Lookout Tree, an ancient Baobab tree near the railway line.

For a closer experience, visit Namakabwa (Livingstone) Island where, in 1855, colonial explorer David Livingstone became the first white man to witness the falls. From the island at the edge of the Falls, views of the Eastern Cataract are spectacular – and trained guides allow you to stand scarily close to the edge. Not quite as close, though, as the (optional) “Life on the edge swim; accompanied by the guides, you trek over slippery rocks and swim across the current of the Zambezi River – prior to its plunge into the Falls. This not-as-scary-as-it-sounds endeavour leads to a rocky outcrop from where a small jump (what felt like the leap of death) lands you in a small rock pool at the edge of the Falls. As you stand this close to such raw, natural beauty, you can barely hear yourself screaming above the sound of the water rushing down while adrenalin pumps through your body turning it into a shaking, excitable mess. You realise why the not-eating-before-swimming rule has always stuck. The island tour also includes a delicious barbecue lunch and much-needed post-swim G&Ts.

Another adrenalin rush is provided by the Victoria Falls Bridge bungee jump. Once you're strapped in and cushioned up, the only nudge you need is the cry of “5-4-3-2-1 . . . BUNGEE! that invariably precedes your 111-metre-fall in 8 seconds. If your stomach's up to it, this is a pumped-up way to see the Falls in all their glory. You can even re-live the memory with the obligatory photo or DVD. Or hop into the gorge swing and throw yourself off the cliff (attached to a body harness, of course) and enjoy a 50-metre free fall. After a few pendulum swings in the gorge, you're lowered to the ground. Approximate half-day cost: US$80

For on-the-water action, pad up for what's touted as the world's wildest one-day whitewater run – not surprising since the rapids are classed between 3 and 5 (5 equals "extremely difficult, long and violent rapids, steep gradients, big drops and pressure areas") but don't let that put you off, for there are tranquil spots in between. Activity companies like Safari Par Excellence offer fully-qualified guides and you don't have to be the strongest swimmer. The best time is during the low water season between July and January. Prices are around US$110 for a half-day trip. The Zambezi is also a popular paddling pool for kayaking fans.

Alternatively, go microlighting for jaw-dropping birds' eye views of the Falls and Zambezi. The extended 30-minute trip also goes upstream over Long Island, Palm Island, Kakunka and Kandahar Islands before flying over the Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park for wildlife-spotting. Or fly off in a 1930s Tiger Moth, one of 250 planes still flying today. Or treat yourself to an indulgent helicopter trip for incredible views over the Falls and spot giraffes and elephants in the bush.

If you'd rather experience life well away from the edge, there's plenty to do when you're not admiring the Falls. Wander around Maramba Market in Livingstone town, pay a visit to the fascinating Livingston museum for quirky insights into tribal life, Zambian history and, of course, explorer David Livingstone. Or enjoy the bumpy ride to Mukuni Village, an authentic tribal village with a bustling, if slightly pushy, crafts and curios market. After all, retail therapy brings its own adrenalin rush...

Where should visitors to the Falls base themselves? Staying on the Zambian side of the Falls (instead of Victoria Falls town in Zimbabwe) has becoming increasingly popular. The views are equally stunning and laidback, lively Livingstone town shows few signs of mass tourism. The area is located in Mosi-Oa-Tunya National Park, home to white rhinos, antelopes, zebras and bird life.

The author travelled to Livingstone, Zambia courtesy of South African tourism.

Fly direct to Livingstone from Johannesburg with South African Airways.

21-07-2008